Islamic Textiles - The art of Textiles was most important in medieval Islamic society, the production of dyes, fibers, mordant, and other possessions needed to weave textiles, along with the transport of finished fabrics, was the strongest industry in comparison to the iron & steel industries of modern times. The importance of the textiles is evident from the number of words for textiles that have passed from Arabic to Persian into European languages, the terms derive from the location where a specific fabric was first woven. Thus, damask derives from Damascus, the capital of Syria; muslin from Mosul, a city on the upper Euphrates; and organdy from Urgench (also known as Urgenc, Urganch) in Central Asia (Uzbekistan) today.

Different regions produced different fibers and fabrics. Linen, for example, was the favored fabric of the Nile Delta, whereas cotton was woven in Mesopotamia, Iran, Yemen and India. The most expensive fiber was silk. Knowledge of silk production had been brought from China to Iran and Syria in pre-Islamic times and, under the Abbasids, production increased dramatically from clothing to furnishings. Fatimids textiles were used in the treasure chambers of Western churches, some of them, the veil of St. "Anne from Apt and the shroud of Cadouin, were the object of special veneration by pilgrims for eight centuries. Tiraz (Persian for "Embroidery") an administrative system, with workshops divided into private & public (Tiras Khass & Tiraz Amm). Fabrics were ornamented with decorative bands, embroidered in wool or silk, sometimes with gold threads worked into them. They bore the name of ruling caliph in Kufic inscriptions. The bands sometimes showed figural scene of plant motifs. Robes for the caliph and his court were made the most valuable of these textiles.

The drawloom, with which complicated patterns could be produced, was introduced to the weaving workshop of Syria & Egypt in the 13th century. The Ayyubids luxury fabrics from Damascus mentioned in contemporary literature were decorated with pairs of animals surrounded by elaborately varied arabesque, then went out of fashion under the Mamluks dynasty. After the Arabs had introduced silkworms and established a court workshop in Cordoba, silks quickly acquired an excellent reputation. Following previous practice, silk products bore the name of the current ruler. Abed al-Rahman III, for instance, had his clothes made from woven silks that bore his name which were so unique that his contemporaries claimed the quality was unmatched among the Abyssinian  manufacturers.

During Ibn Haugal travel through Spain in mid 10th century, he recorded the numerous textile mills, whose linen and silk fabrics constituted the regional bazaars luxury articles, and were also exported to the eastern Mediterranean. Varies quality items, including wool, hemp, and cotton material, were famous for their brilliant natural colors, originating from plants common throughout the territory.

The Almoravids and the Almohads dynasties controlled the trade routes to the gold mines in western Sudan & Andalusian port with Andalusian silk being the most important trade. Andalusian silk, which, in spite of competition from Byzantine products, proved itself to be a reliable mainstay of Andalusian economic power.  Cities like Almeria, Malaga, Valencia and Seville all flourished to become famous centers for silk. According to a description by the geographer Al-Idrisi, who traveled around Spain in middle 12th century, the leading silk city of Almeria had 800 weaving mills, which to some extent at least used fully equipped drawlooms with sufficient leading frames to create variable weave using field and pattern.

Islamic Textiles were among the most highly prized means of displaying the range of rulers power during festivals and welcoming ceremonies for distinguished guests. The most valuable, which were the awnings, carpets, screens, and panels for imperial tents, were kept in rulers private storehouse.
 

Nile Delta The English word Delta is derived from the Greek letter Delta which is shaped like a triangle - city located by "The Nile" the longest river in the world, Egypt

Shroud of Cadouin This holly shroud, allegedly used at Christ's burial, was first displayed in 1115, it was kept at Cistercian abbey at Cadouin in Périgord . It was destroyed in 1933 when it was found, the shroud is from the 10th century & carried quotations from the Quran

St. Anne In Hebrew or Arabic its "Hannah" - which means - "grace"; also spelled in English Ann, Anne, Anna is the traditional name of the mother of the Blessed Virgin Mary.

Drawloom Type of a loom used to weaving patterns - It requires an assistant to the weaver sitting at the top of the loom helping to select the "pick" for each successive row of weft. These "picks" have been pre-selected and tied in groups for easy access.

ISLAMIC ART

Pen Box, c. 1650, Mughals, jade set with rubies. London, Victoria & Albert Museum. This magnificent jewel-encrusted pen box, contains a knife to cut the reed, stylus handle and a spoon to measure the ingredients for ink.

Fragment of fabric, Egypt, 12th century, linen & silk. Cairo Museum of Islamic Art. This fabric comes from the Coptic linen weaving workshops established under the control of caliph in the Fatimids dynasty. Some part are adorned with flower motifs, while lower part has two bands containing white inscription on a red ground, referring to "fortune & prosperity."

Jeweled dagger and sheath, c. 1619, Mughals, Kuwait al-sabah Collection. The gold hilt and scabbard of this dagger are engraved and set with rubies, emeralds, diamonds, agate, enamel, glass, and ivory. This is most probably the dagger commissioned by Emperor Jahangir and described in his memoirs.

Jewelry box, north India, 17th century, enamel set with ruby. Washington, Freer gallery of Art. The striking multicolored floral decoration is as characteristics of Mughals art as is the setting of all the elements in fine gold wire.

Banner, first half of the 13th century, Burgos, Monasterio de S. Maria la Real de Huelgas, Museo de Telas Medievales. This banner is associated with the decisive battle of Las Navas de Tolosa, where in 1212 the Muslim armies suffered a crushing defeat by the armies of Castile, Navarre, and Aragon under Alfonso VIII of Castile. The star pattern uses ideas of contemporary Quran illumination. Quotations from the Quran (Sura 16, 10-12) promote the holy war and promise Paradise to the warrior believers

Liturgical robe (a.k.a alb), Palermo, 1181, Vienna, Kunst historisches Museum. This silk-lined yellow taffeta robe has magnificent wide bands of silk embroidered in gold and set with pearls and precious stones. It bears two inscriptions - in Arabic and Latin - recording that it was made in 1181 in the royal Tiraz workshops of Palermo for king William II. It was worn as a coronation robe by both Fredrick II in 1120 and Charles V in 1250.