

The
Alhambra is not only the most important, but also the best conserved Arabian
palace. The name Alhambra means "the red one" and refers to the color of the
mountain,
on which it is built. There are two entrances, in the north
the Puerta de las Armas and in the south the Puerta de la Justicia, which
lead to the first court an the mosque.
Most
of the construction of the palace took part under Yusuf the first (1333-1354)
and then his son Mohammed the fifth (1354 - 1391). After the re-conquest,
the Catholic Monarchs carried out some alterations and Charles the fifth
built a Renaissance palace in the centre, which looks clumsy in comparison
to the Moorish architecture and rather out of place.
The
palaces of the Alhambra; originally built by Ismael I for the juridical
administration and later restructured by Muhammad the fifth. Under King
Charles V the building was changed to be a Christian chapel. Main attraction
is the splendid Golden Room with its Renaissance ceiling. The patio has
124 fine white marble column that are supposed to symbolize palm trees.
Water flows in from four directions to the fountain of lions in the centre.
The
Palacio de Comares was built by Yusuf I and is an arrangements of rooms
around the central Patio de los Arraynes (Courtyard of the Myrtles). The
smaller Mexuar Patio has a small washing fountain and the Comares facade,
which shows some of the best Nasrite art available. Arabic script, with
a repetitive phrase "La gallib illa Allah or There is no victor but God",
runs around the stucco walls, along with a beautiful frieze of glazed tiles.
The original colouring, which has now faded, was gold (royalty), red (power),
green (paradise) and blue (hope of attaining paradise). There is a striking
contrast between the ornate interior and plain outside, which was designed
to symbolize the concept that inner life, i.e. family and spirituality,
provides real wealth.

The
dimensions allow to have nine adjoining rooms worked into the walls, which
are ornamented with epigraphs from the Koran. Another attraction is the
palace's Patio de los Arrayanes a large court with columns of marble
and a beautiful central fountain. The Palace of Muhammad V was the private
residence of this Moorish king and is another highlight. Four great halls
enclose the famous Patio de los Leones, the "lions' court". The figures
of lions that carry the fountain is a curiosity in arabian art, as the
figurative representation of animals (as well as humans) is forbidden in
Islam. Remarkable are as well the verses of poet Ibn Zamrak, which explain
the function of the palace's very advanced irrigation plants.
The
Hall of the Mozárabes got its name after the Christian architects
of the time of the re-conquest from the Moors, which were themselves strongly
influenced by Moorish style. In the case of this hall, they
changed the original cupola for a baroque ceiling that is
based on a central star motif, which is made up of muqarnas prisms,
and merges into square-shaped ground plan of the room with the help of hanging
Muqarnas
spandrels. The Hall of the Abencerrajes
got its name from an Arabian noble family, who was murdered in here. In
the King's Hall we find paintings of the Arabian royal family. For the
reasons mentioned above scientists doubt if those paintings are original
or were made, after the re-conquest, by Christians. The most splendid hall
is the Sala de las dos Hermanas, ("hall of the two sisters"). The beautifully
worked-out ceilings show verses of Ibn Zamrak and are ornamented with gold
and lapislazuli.
After
the re-conquest The Palace of Charles V, reminds astonishingly to buildings
of Italian renaissance. The reason is that its architect, Pedro Machuca,
has been a student of Michelangelo in Florence. Today there are several
museums inside of this palace: the National Museum of Spanish-Moorish Art,
where you can see among many other important objects the famous seven jars
of the Alhambra, works of glass-ceramics, and the Museum of Arts, mainly
with works of the granadinian school from 15th to 20th century.
The
Court of the Lions and its Dependencies

This
most celebrated part of the Alhambra dates from Muhammad V's time. This
was a closed composition of long and square or nearly square units around
an open space surrounded by a portico, and a complex hierarchy of parts
was involved, not merely in a quasi-two-dimensional facade-like order (as
with the northern end of the Court of the Myrtles) but in three-dimensional
space as well.
The
court itself is rather small (28.5 by 15.7 meters), and its surrounding
portico with two projecting pavilions articulates the sides of the court
in an unusually complicated manner.
On
the western side of the court there is simply a long hall, the Sala de
los Mocárabes, with a Renaissance ceiling. The eastern end, known
as the Hall of the Kings (Sala de los Reyes) is more complex. It consists
primarily of three square units, higher than the rest and covered with
domes of stucco muqarnas. These square units are framed and separated by
five rectangular spaces with a heavy archway and a flat ceiling. The total
effect is of a rhythmic succession of lit and dark parts which seems to
lengthen the hall. Three alcoves separated by small rooms open from the
Hall of the Kings. They are most celebrated for their ceiling paintings,
whose exact iconography and origins have never been worked out but which
are probably late fourteenth-century and reflect the impact on the Nasrids
of northern, possibly even French style.
Walls,
Towers, Gates

The
first impression of the Alhambra is of a fortified enclosure, some 2,200
meters in perimeter, whose peculiar shape is obviously determined by the
contours and defensive possibilities of the terrain. This enclosure was
connected, in all likelihood, to the outer walls of the city at two points.
At its western most end a wall which is still preserved led to the Vermilion
Towers and in some unknown fashion connected with the wall surrounding
the city from the south. Then at some distance to the northeast of the
wall's westernmost edge traces remain of a wall that went down into the
valley of the Darro and was probably part of the city's eastern and northern
walls. A third connection with city walls, on the the eastern side, is
proposed by some authors, but its archaeological or literary justification
is not entirely clear. In any event the Alhambra was both a part of the
city of Granada and independent of it, having its own direct contacts with
the outside world.
The impressively thick walls are of hard rubble faced with stone and brick masonry and covered with plaster. There are twenty-two towers, rather irregularly spaced in plan but adapted to the needs and requirements of the terrain. The towers have several notable peculiarities. First, they are not all alike: some are fairly simple and massive square towers; others either project towards the outside, almost like independent units of varying shapes, or they form large or small square units, with many windows and other types of openings, and contain major palatial establishments. The
second peculiarity is that the latter group of towers is particularly characteristic
of the northern side of the Alhambra, where nature itself provides the
best defense. It seems that, whenever military considerations were
secondary, towers tended to be transformed into constituent parts of no
defensive
units within the enclosure. This immediately raises the question whether
the walls and towers are correctly interpreted as defensive or whether
they were not simply a formal means of separating the aristocratic and
royal area from the other one;
the point of these walls and towers may have been less one of protection
than of separation.
Alternatively, the difference between the northern
and southwestern towers may be explained by the fact that the two groups
correspond to entirely different sections of the interior, the northern
being the zone of palaces, the southern being
the city. It has been argued that there was a wall between the two zones
inside the city itself, but the archaeological evidence, such as it is,
does not seem absolutely convincing. In
any event, the walls and towers can be interpreted as simply defensive
and protective, as means of separating different kinds of lives, as reflections
of internal planning, or as any combination of these purposes. But, whatever
complexities one can introduce into their interpretations, a contemporary
awareness of their military potential is established by the fact that one
could move freely along the northern wall through passageways under the
main palaces, avoiding the main royal complexes. Whether or not these passages
predate the fourteenth-century constructions above them remains a moot
question.
The
Gate of Law, plan
Four
main gates (other than posterns or late openings) led into the great Alhambra
enclosure. The first and most important one, on the southwestern side,
is the Bab al-Shari`ah, the Gate of Justice, or more precisely, the Gate
of Law, dated by an inscription of 1348. It is unusual in several ways.
Its peculiar projection and the fact that the formal doorway with the official
foundation inscription is perpendicular to the wall may be explained by
the sloping terrain on which it was built, but other features are more
difficult to interpret. One is the deep porch placed in front of the entry,
as though some ceremony took place there. The ceremonial character of the
monument is further emphasized by several architectural and decorative
details. For instance the interior, with its two turns, contains three
different kinds of vault: an elongated cross vault, a cupola, then three
traditional cross vaults. It is almost as though the architect or the patron
sought to show off his technical versatility.
The
Gate of Law
On
the front of the building a hand was carved on the keystone of the arch,
while a key with a cord appears on the center of the inner archway, and
the Muslim profession of faith was carved on the handsome capitals of the
engaged columns framing the door. The first two of these symbols are not
altogether clear, and became a subject of debate as early as in Théophile
Gautier's description; and the occurrence of the formal "There is no God
but God; Muhammad is His Prophet; there is no force or power except in
God" is rare on gates to fortresses, especially when independent of the
dedicatory inscription. Finally, if it is correct to assume that the outer
walls of the Alhambra belong to the latter part of the thirteenth century,
this gate, with its formal inscription, its unusual name and construction,
and its decoration, must have been a fourteenth-century addition of Yusuf
I with apparently very specific symbolic and functional purposes. Much
has been made of its name, the Gate of Islamic Law, and some have argued
that it was the place where justice was meted out. Since this interpretation
is connected with the much broader problem of the ceremonial, symbolic,
or practical meanings to be given to various parts of the Alhambra, discussion
of it will be postponed to the next chapter.
The
second door on the south side, now known as the Gate of the Seven Heavens,
had originally the far more prosaic name Bab al-Ghudur, "Gate of the Cisterns."
With its huge semicircular projecting bastion and its twenty two meter
high towers, it is the most impressive of the Alhambra gates, even though
its forward bastions were blown up by Napoleon's retreating army. But,
impressive as it is, it has only a single turn and is in plan quite unexceptional.
The
Gate of Arms

The
third gate, on the northeastern side, is the ancient Iron Gate (Bab al-Hadid),
known today as the Arrabal Gate and connected with the primarily defensive
complex of the Torre de los Picos. It was apparently the main way of reaching
the Generalife and seems to have been primarily a private passageway rather
than a formal entry into a palatial compound. As with so many other "Gates
of Iron" found all over the Muslim world, it is possible that the original
name was Bab al-Jadid, "the New Gate," and that the association with metallic
solidity is but a scribal preference over mundane novelty, the letters
for "J" and "H" being almost identical in Arabic.
The
last of the Alhambra gates is the Gate of Arms, almost at the extreme west
of the enclosure. It was the only gate connecting the Alhambra directly
with the city of Granada. Difficult to reach from the outside, it rose
into the oldest fortified part of the Alhambra and is justly celebrated
for its superb vaults.
The
Generalife

It
is difficult to discuss the Alhambra without some mention of the Generalife
and the various pavilions and gardens above it. The name itself, known
already in the fourteenth century, is a corruption of Jinnah al-`Arif,
for which two interpretations have been proposed: "the Garden of the Architect,"
or "the Noblest of Gardens."
Most
of the present layout of the gardens themselves is modern, and many of
the buildings have been much restored and rebuilt. The importance of the
Generalife for our purpose - to set the archaeological stage for an explanation
of the Alhambra - lies in two of its features.
The
first, already mentioned, is that some of it is earlier than the main palaces
of the Alhambra, already having been partly completed by 1319. It may,
therefore, have played a role in the formation of the palaces, although
it is difficult to know whether this role was accidental, in the sense
that its water supplies preceded those of the Alhambra, or whether the
Alhambra should be considered as the royal residence built next to already
existing princely gardens.
The
other pertinent feature of the Generalife is that it is a monument typologically
unique in combining public and private, with two independent entrances,
one from the Alhambra below, the other from the south and the outside;
it seems, therefore, to belong to a somewhat different order of use from
the Alhambra proper, less secluded and less restricted. The main part of
the General life consists of a long pool now surrounded by plants, with two
loggias on the long sides and two complexes of buildings at the narrow
ends. One was complicated, containing several rooms and interior courts;
the other consisted of a portico, a long hall, and a square mirador higher
up. Above this main part were more gardens and waterways, including the
celebrated one with water running in the handrail of a staircase ramp.
These stairs led to an oratory and, even higher up, to several additional
pavilions, now mostly gone, one of which was romantically named the House
of the Bride, Dar al-`Arusah.