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Isfahan; The
Pearl of Islam.
The
Safavids, a native dynasty, reunited Iran in the early 16th century and reached
the highest point in the reign of Shah Abbas I the Great (1587-1629).
He moved the capital to Isfahan
(ancient
Aspadana) (210
miles (340 km) south of Tehran)
and in a exceptional illustration of Iranian town planning, reorganized the
whole city in a series of interlinked squares according to the grandest plans
conceivable. This was not the first time that the Safavids dynasty had moved
their capital, they started moving since their original capital (Tabriz) in
1555, till they established as a world power in Isfahan in late 1590's.
T his review cover the
Masjid-i Shah
(Imam Mosque) in the Maidan, Isfahan. The Maidan itself host
Ali Qapu Palace
(Fourth Building,
located in the west side of the Maidan, built in 1590), Lutfallah Mosque
(Built after the
completion of the Maidan between 1603 & 1619),
Shah Mosque
(Built
between 1611 & 1630) ,
Chahar Bagh and the
bazaar
(Built on a 2 KM
stretch) that connected the old city
with the new Maidan. The
largest square, in the north, is the Maidan-i Shah, a vast open space, with a
major building complex on three sides. One of these is the Masjid-iShah, or
Imam Mosque, the greatest building in a magnificent city. Its monumental
gateway, with minarets 110 feet (34 Meter) high, occupies a significant pan of
the southern side of the maidan.
 The
Masjid-i Shah Mosque is a marvel of Safavids art and magnificent example
of the extravagant architecture that constituted the glory of Isfahan at the
time. The two minarets of the north
portal, the high cupola (170 feet) and minarets of the south portal (160 feet), and the pointed
roof of the gold dominate the arcades of the square. The finest view of the
mosque is from the upper story of Ali Qapu Palace where you can see the entire
structure of the minarets, the stalactite vaults of the portals, and the
splendid cupola with its high drum and characteristic bulb-shaped dome.
 In order to align the mosque with Mecca while
maintaining the integrity of
the square,
the mosque is set at an angle of about
45 degrees to the gateway, the plan was similar to the earlier
Mosque of Lutfallah on the
east side of the square. The building largely follows Seljuk tradition, conforming to the four-iwan plan, each leading to a domed hall and flanked by double-storey arcades
with pointed niches of the Seljuk type. The largest iwan is on the
Qibla side and has in fact a massive panel and dome itself set on a large
drum. Beyond the iwans east and west of the courtyard are madrasas
or religious colleges. Minarets are paired
at both the entry portal and the south iwan. The southern dome, a bulbous form
supported on a tall drum, is the largest and the only one decorated.
The visible exteriors of the
mosque are largely
covered with ceramic tiles, in color predominantly blue or
 turquoise, cool
colors contrasting agreeably with the warm tones of brickwork and landscape
round about. Two main types of tile work
were developed; The mosaic tile work
produced by incorporating single color
tiles into the design and the so called cuerda seca
technique where a range of colors is used on
individual, generally square shaped tiles. The
principle colors used were blue,
yellow, turquoise, pink, aborigine and
green. These seven colors gave rise to the name haft rang - which
literally
means "seven colors". Tile work was used to emphasize certain motif, such as the
ascending and descending patterns in the dome of the Lutfallah Mosque, and to emphasize
intermediary points in the design either by providing a patterned panel or
border, or by incorporating calligraphy.
Designs are varied and fluid, mostly based on
stylized floral archetype. The concentration on decorative facades is a
departure from Seljuk tradition which was less determined to conceal structure.
Ali Reza a great Iranian calligrapher, who was responsible for the inscriptions in the mosque, dated the main entrance in 1616, but work was clearly unfinished as there are records of orders being placed as late as 1630. There are estimates that 18 million bricks are in the building and the revetments are said to contain 472,500 tiles.
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